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Well, the last day of the fiesta saw hoards of people, summoned by bangers and rockets, gravitating from all directions towards the main arena where rows of tables and chairs were all neatly laid out.
We found our places and got our drinks, watching the musicians tuning up and enjoying the assembling families of all generations. In the corner an enormous paella was being prepared by a chef complete with pilsbury dough boy hat on! Then, suddenly queues at right angles were formed by hundreds of people eagerly anticipating the paella. I was thrust forwards much to my surprise as my love handles were manouevered by a little old Spanish lady who was clearly excited and delighted to show off the village culinary delight to a newcomer. Her actions of anticipation were bubbly and unable to understand a word she said I just happily went along. At the end of the queue was a human chain of women passing down plated of paella and chunks of crusty bread to the hoards and two bulging plates were generously pushed into my hands.
The ambience, the excitement of the old lady (who was sitting next to our table), my own absorption in the atmosphere and an overwhelming feeling of being embraced by a culture led me to completely abandon my vegetarian principles and tuck in – which clearly delighted my neighbourly old lady. It tasted delicious!! At least I will now know when I see future huge paella dishes, what it actually tastes like! It was completely free, the villagers hold events all year to fund the feria, and free beers were also distributed followed by free Spanish cornettos! MMMMMMmmmmm! Being in such a huge dining frenzy was exhilarating and fun and really made you feel like part of the community!
More singing, dancing and drinking went on until everyone had finished, plates cleared and people started drifting away. Checking out the later events we too sauntered home in the blistering heat for a much needed siesta.
Thinking we were late at 9p.m. we returned to the feria restaurant to be the first customers and tucked into some unusual tappas washed down by summer wine. As the place filled up we ended up being there until midnight awaiting our refreshed drinks and then the bill, but it was such a perfect people watching place that it was like being in the stalls at the theatre.
We returned to the main arena to find everyone else had returned, suitably and respectably attired for the main event, which promised to be big as there was even a mixing desk!! The smoke bellowed, the lights came on (then fused – not sure if that was to build up the tension or whether the guy with the pliers hadn’t cobbled the connection properly) and then, to a crescendo of drum, guitar, keyboard and saxophone intro a blue apparition appeared on the stage and ……….yes………proceeded to wail!!!!!! Fortunately her wailing was much deeper than Friday night’s so it wasn’t quite as traumatic on the eardrums, but we could only wait until our drinks were finished before deciding to leave. As her OOOOOoooooooaaaaaahhhhhhhhOOOOOOOOoooooooaaaaaHHHHHHHs repeated and repeated, the more the audience became enthralled and would cheer and clap to the very long ones!!
As it was quarter to three we decided to see if we could sleep and if we heard the fireworks, would get up and watch them……………..Ha! ha! IF!!!!!! My god!!! It sounded like a bomb going off outside our door!!! We got up and the display was spectacular. You couldn’t hear any OOOOs or Ahhhs, only dogs going wild and echoes going round and round the mountains long after each one exploded. I have attached three of our attempts to get good photos which was very difficult with the delay after you click.
Finally ending at 3.30 we crashed out, although on a visit to the loo at 5.30 I was still able to hear the music and partying going on down there ………how do they do it? I have been consistently unable to tell the Brits and the nationals apart until this feria – the Brits were always the ones yawning!!
Yesterday afternoon, having been stunned into action by more rockets, we sauntered down to the main arena and as it seemed to be childrens’ entertainment, went on to the bar down the road next to the dodgems for a couple of cool beers as it was sweltering heat. We had eaten before we left, so did not need any food. Just as we were chilling someone told us that the main arena had loads of delicious free food where you could just go and help yourself!! Trust me to miss free food! Apparently it was a nice stew and some lovely potatoes!As none of the rides or stalls were open we decided to go home for a siesta and go to watch the procession at 8p.m.
There we were, just before 8 on a shady bit of wall, in full view of the church, camera primed and ready (when will we learn). Smartly dressed villagers were in and around the church and continued to cram in, whole families walking past us, a band dropped off in a mini bus, police, rocket men!……….meanwhile one and a half hours later, after much church singing and random rocket launches, the church doors were thrown open and out came the madonna and her entourage. Standing up to get the perfect picture of madonna and parade with church in the background, imagine our dismay when they suddenly turned left and headed off towards the bridge!!! (pictures 006 and 008) We legged it down there to tag on to the back, embarrassed at our faux pas and sauntered over the bridge with them all, the police car just behind us. Then, just as we all trooped over the bridge, they turned completely round and came back again!!! There was us, legging it back to our original spot and hopefully achieved our picture (the one ending in 010).
At random intervals, the rocket men would just hold a rocket (three had a sort of wooden handle to hold them, but one just held them in his hand) and light them (photo 011), the explosions echoing around the valleys sending horses and dogs wild!!
They trundled on with Madonna, along the road, the durgy band music, until they got to the restaurant at the Feria where they put her on a few tables, lit some sparklers then set off back with her. (photos 012,013,015) Yours truly needed to eat, so didn’t follow them back again.
The entertainment in the main area was excellent, people watching was brilliant as well as enjoying the music. Even the main artists were so good we stayed until nearly 3. The last two photos are of the mini dodgems and adult dodgems which I have tried to show how they are just plonked on plots between occupied houses.
Observing the children at these events has made me completely rethink the British child rearing philosophies. They are still playing and using all the bouncing apparatus at 2a.m., babies are either sleeping in buggies on in the arms of a grown up – whole families sharing care. We did not see one single child cry or throw a tamtrum or look unhappy – all the adults enjoyed them being around and there was even a little boy about 7 dancing the routine with the women singers very, very well!
Today is the last day, paella this afternoon and a big star from Madrid tonight!
The morning after the night before.
Our return to the evening Feria proved very entertaining with the band singing and dancing, villagers dancing in couples, food being served both BBQs and restaurant a la carte (we had eaten of course so apart from some cardboard cheesy puffs didn’t have any food) and a general hub bub of happy activity.
Still no farmers bringing their goats so maybe that was in by-gone days or someone was winding us up.
We decided to stay until the main act whcih was due to start at 1.30. However, as the crowning of the Queens was supposed to happen at 12 and didn’t start until nearly one, we guessed it would be delayed.
Sure enough at 2.15ish a rather dashing flamenco guitarist and glittery singer arrived, complete with their own pine dining chairs. They sat themselves down on stage and after a lengthy and skilled guitar intro the glittery woman started to sing! Now, I have worked on a labour ward so I thought I knew what howling sounded like, but no, that was like heavenly music compared to the agonising protracted wails this glittery woman emitted. I tried very hard to understand what it was all about and to share the enthusiasm of my Spanish neighbours but completely failed! As the notes escalated and our nerves quivered, we drifted off home and judging by the disapproving frown I received from one of her fans, it wasn’t a moment to soon. We were able to hear her all the way home!
I don’t think we will stay for the top act tonight! I think this experience has demonstrated how we are socialised into music appreciation in our own cultures rather than it being innate.
Hope the photos give a clear picture of how it is. Sadly, we never saw anyone ride the cylinder bulls, or the dodgems the poor fair people looked really depressed. Maybe tonight will be their night.
Well, having sat on the veranda last night and observed another large
trailored vehicle arrive as well as hearing fireworks, I went to the bottom
of the road for a nosey.
The unfinished apartment blocks have people in caravans living in the
ground floor shell and outside the front the rather dishy fair men were
constructing a huge trampoline rig thing, something in spanish which looked
like some sort of arena, then another vehicle was being manouvered onto the
pavement with a huge articulated lorry sized trailor which when the sides
are down will surely take up a large portion of the road.
To my delight, there posted on the bottle bank is a programme of events and
posters of Spanish female artists who are going to perfom on Friday and
Saturday nights at 1.30a.m.! The festivities start at 8a.m. on Friday and
finish with the last thing coming on at 4.30a.m. on Monday morning!!As it
was in Spanish I was only able to work out a little bit of the detail but
there is going to be food and drink and opening ceremonies, a king will be
paraded/chosen, mister and misses will be chosen, there will be a huge
paella, things for children and lots of dancing. The last billed item of
each day starts at 4.30a.m. so I am now beginning to understand why we were
told we might as well forget any ideas of sleep. They resume on Saturday
and Sunday at 10a.m.
Then just beyond the bottle bank on some concreted fenced off area you
usuall just walk past and not notice there are lots of poles and canvas
awaiting erection, half constructed san miguel decorated counters (bars???)
and a stage is also being built!
Just down the road, a few doors down from the English bar I lovingly call
the Peacock is a plot of land between two rows of houses where they have
built the Dodgems!!
Well, what will be revealed when I go down there day? I am planning to take
my dictionary and check out the timetable again. Will they block the road?
Will more trucks arrive or are they all here? Watch out for third bulletin.
As we left our little estate today, at the junction with the main road there
are all fair type lorries parked up! About 6 or 8 of them which seems like
hundreds on the little road, promising delights of flashing lights, jumping
scary things, trampolenes and unimaginable other delights. It reminds me of
when I was little and the bus used to take us past Patricroft fair – seeing
the lorries arrive was the first part of the fun.
As it isn’t due to start until Saturday and its only Tuesday, who knows what
else will happen? All we know up to now is that we may as well forget any
notion of getting to sleep at night because it goes on all night and that
surrounding farmers bring their livestock down from the hills so they can
join in! – will this be what really happens?
Watch out for next bulletin!!!!!
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